Palomas

The Far Side I

Giant SquidGiant Squid

Giant Squid 12
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mike Tritt, 2006
This route is just right of Surfer Boy and The Shrimp. Technical climbing on a blunt arete leads to a big-move crux and then easier climbing above. Requires delicate movement and heel-hooks, or tentacles with suction cups. 7 bolts.

Stiff Upper lipStiff Upper Lip

Stiff Upper Lip 11b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne, 2007
This route is just left of Rambling Man. Lieback up to a thin crack that leads to a large ledge. Lean over right to clip the last bolt and then climb out right and up to the anchor. 6 bolts.

Indiscriminate DrillingIndiscriminate Drilling

Indiscriminate Drilling 10c
FA: Vaino Kodas, 2006
At the far left side of THE FAR SIDE I is a bottleneck in the trail between the rock face and a large tree, mentioned by Bernard Moret in his excellent online guide to Palomas. Indiscriminate Drilling starts about 15 ft. right of this bottleneck. Stem up a corner and then exit left to an arete. Move sharply left at the top to the anchors. A large midway ledge on the left is a possible resting spot. 6 bolts.
NOTE: The bolts on this route were first placed as a practice drilling exercise with no thought about placement. Fortunately a climbing route was then discovered that coincidentally passes all of them, with only mild discomfort at the seemingly odd and random bolt positions.


Palomas
The information on this website was compiled by Vaino Kodas and may not be copied in any manner without his consent.